LAOS
Laos, oficially the Lao People's Democratic Republic, is bordered by Burma (Myanmar) and China to the northwest, Vietnam to the east, Cambodia to the south, and Thailand to the west. Laos traces its history to the Kingdom of Lan Xang or Land of a Million Elephants, which existed from the fourteenth to the eighteenth century as a vassal of Siam. After a period as a French protectorate, it gained independence in 1949. A long civil war ended officially when the communist Pathet Lao movement came to power in 1975 but the fighting between factions continued for several years.
Private enterprise has increased since the late 1990s when economic reforms including rapid business licensing were introduced. Laos is still ranked among the lowest countries in terms of economic and political freedom. The economy of Laos grew at 7.2% in 2006, 35th fastest in the world. 80% of the employed practice subsistence agriculture. The country's ethnic make-up is diverse, with around 70% belonging to the largest ethnic group, the Lao.
Vinh to Vientianne: 460Kms – 9hrs. Hotel: Don Chan Palace
Up at the crack of down for the run into Laos. Although, once again a long distance, it is actually a much easier drive than one would anticipate. The road in Vietnam is quite mountainous to the border with stunning views. Customs facilities are easy at the border. When I was there on the recce the officials were engrossed in a game of Petanque or Boules – the French boulevard game. Although only invented in 1907 it has clearly remained as an abiding reminder of French occupation. The other reminder you will see is the proliferation of Baguettes which the Lao people clearly love.
The road from the border is excellent, having been built by the Vietnamese some four years ago. What would once have been a long and painful journey is now a joy. The road passes through the land of the Mung, the hill tribes. The other tribes are the Kamu or Middle Landers and the Laulung – Low Landers. There is also a marked contrast in the housing in this area, for one coming from Vietnam where the houses are narrow and long. Here they are much wider and often on stilts.
Vientianne is more modern than old, although if you arrive on time, the sunset over the Mekong River is a must.
Vientianne to Luang Prabang: 386Kms – 7.5hrs. Hotel: The Grand Hotel
A fabulous drive through the interior of Laos to the most touristic town in Laos. Having said that it is still a tranquil backwater compared to many tourist destinations and is still a delight to walk round. Of great historical significance the city was formerly the capital of a kingdom of the same name. Until the communist takeover in 1975, it was the royal capital and seat of government of the Kingdom of Laos and now it is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
The main street, Xiang Thong, of Luang Prabang is a wonderful patchwork of traditional Lao wooden houses and hints of European architecture - reminders of when Laos was part of the French colony of Indochine. Golden-roofed wats (temples), decorated with mosaics and murals of the life of Buddha sit under the gaze of wrap-around balconies and 19th century shuttered windows.
Places to visit:
Haw Kham - the former royal palace.
Phou Si - the main hill, from which you have a good view of the whole area.
Vat Xieng Toung - the oldest monastery in town and one of the most beautiful.
Kuang Si Falls, 29 km south of Luang Prabang. There are multiple pools at different levels, all of which seem safe to bathe in, and are extremely picturesque.
Pak Ou Caves - the famous "Buddha caves" are some km north of town on the Mekong and can be reached by boat or road. Alternatively, you could hire canoes and a guide for the day.
Night market - there is a 'night-market' selling all the typical Lao arts and crafts, some more touristy than others. This is very pretty and worth a visit, but be warned that it packs up by about 9pm, unlike the similar markets in Thailand that go on well into the early hours.
Luang Prabang to Phon Sa Van: 260Kms – 6hrs. Hotel: Plain of Jars Hotel
Although some of the day is retracing the road from the drive to Luang Prabang it does take on a different character, making it an equally fascinating drive. Start early to get to Phon Sa Van by mid afternoon and you will have an opportunity to see one of the great mysteries of the area – The Plain of Jars.
The Jars, giant stone urns are a great mystery with varying explanations being offered. The most prosaic is the Lao legend that there was a race of giants who once inhabited the area. Local legend tells of an ancient king called Khun Cheung, who fought a long, victorious battle against his enemy. He supposedly created the jars to brew and store huge amounts of lao lao rice wine to celebrate his victory.
The jars lie in clusters. The largest one near the town of Phonsavan, known as Site 1, contains over 250 jars of varying sizes. The jars now lie amidst thousands of unexploded bombs left behind by the Secret War in Laos in the 1960s. The large quantity of UXOs (unexploded ordnances) in the area means that only Sites 1, 2 and 3 are open to visitors—the others are considered too dangerous.
