MALAYSIA

Kuala Lumpur
As capital cities go KL is one of the most undiscovered. Most people have probably heard of it usually because of its striking linked twin Petronas towers, once the tallest in the world. Like a lot of emerging countries traffic is an issue and here it can be a nightmare particularly when it rains in the rush hour which it often does. The weekends are quieter which is why the first Tiger Rally as been scheduled to start on a Sunday morning. But first we have to collect the cars. On this event there will be some 20 containers, converging on Port Klang from all corners of the globe. And where could be more international than the new F1 circuit at Sepang to unload the cars?

On the recce we were fortunate to be introduced to Izzudin Rosli, the sales and sponsorship manager of the circuit who has proved to be a star. He is arranging for the containers to be dropped at the back of the paddock area where the participants will be able to extract their cars themselves before parking them in the pits for a spanner check and fuel top up. Then the circuit is kindly allowing participants to shake down their vehicles on the track if they so wish.

Refreshments will be provided and a few classic car enthusiasts from Malaysia will be invited to meet the participants and share in the trials and tribulations of maintaining older cars in Malaysia.
There is a healthy community of classic car enthusiasts in Malaysia including the ex-prime minister who has a large collection of his own.

The drive from Sepang to KL could be busy so we are suggesting that everyone leaves the circuit by 3.30pm to avoid the rush hour in the town. Parking will be underground at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel where we are staying. Even amongst competing hoteliers the Mandarin Oriental is agreed to be the best in town, not just due to its position, adjacent to the twin Petronas Towers, but also because of the quality of its rooms and service.

KL itself is a cosmopolitan town with shopping centres and all the luxury brands you can think of. By contrast there are the local night markets and, of course, China town where prices are hugely inflated for foreigners. Don’t be shy in offering ridiculously low process for goods as the mark up is probably 300%.
The next important event will be the flag off which will be from the Menara KL Tower, the fourth tallest building in the world. It is a short distance from the hotel and will be a great experience for everyone.

Day 1 to Cameron Highlands: 208Kms - 4.5 hours
Starting from the KL Tower you will soon be out of the town and into the Malaysian countryside. With Sunday being a day of rest the traffic will be light and free-flowing. The road we take will be the old road which runs parallel to the motorway, towards Ipoh. At Waypoint 32 we turn off and head up the hills to the cooler climes of this old Colonial hill station. Here the temperatures rarely moves above 25 degrees making it a great location for intensive farming which, while good for the local economy, has blighted the landscape in some areas.

Our hotel just outside Tana Rata is the Cameron Highlands Resort which is directly opposite the golf course. Here, the welcome is warm – there may even be a fire in the grate - the rooms have four poster beds and the whole atmosphere is one of tranquillity and calm. The Spa is unique in offering a tea bath before you start your treatment. A whole new meaning to the expression ‘more tea vicar.’ However the whole experience is blissful and highly recommended after the hot sticky days in KL.

Day 2 – Cameron Highlands to Pangkor Laut: 160Kms – 3.5hours
Turning left out of the hotel the rally heads for the new road down the hill. This sweeping highway is barely used and quickly takes you from the 1475 metres height of the Cameron Highlands to the plains below, on the road to Lumut, the ferry stop over for the island of Pangkor Laut. First we head for Batu Gajah then onto Route 5 which takes us into Lumut and the passenger ferry. We have arranged for parking on the first floor of the new multi storey car park, where there will also be 24 guards to watch over the cars.

The ferry heads round the island of Pangkor for its little brother, Pangkor Laut, a privately owned island which hosts one of Malaysia’s premier resorts. This experience is a direct contrast to Cameron Highlands as our rooms for the night are in a most idyllic location on stilts over the sea. You can then take advantage of the swimming pools or head for Emerald Bay beach and enjoy the beach life. In the evening we will be all eating together at Emerald Bay, just a few minutes away in the resort’s own minibuses. Here we can watch the sun set while sipping our sundowners and relaxing in the warm breeze.

Like most days on the rally, you will have to decide whether to rise early and take advantage of the great spa facilities, take a leisurely breakfast, or head for beach for a few more rays before continuing the journey.

Day 3 – Pangkor Laut to Penang: 183Kms – 4.5 hours
Taking the ferry back to Lumut (8am or 11am) we head northwards towards Penang Island, once a legendary haunt of buccaneers and pirates, but now the most authentic colonial town in Malaysia – even the road signs are still in English with very English and Scottish sounding names. Having fallen out of fashion towards the end of the 20th century all its most significant buildings have been preserved instead of being knocked down and replaced with high rise offices and flats. The E&O Hotel is a case in point. It was the centre of high society during the colonial era but fell into disrepair after the Saaki bothers went bankrupt. In 1995 Restoration was begun and it reopened in 2001 since when it has once again become a popular haunt of tourists and high society.

The drive from Lumut is about 4 hours 30 minutes but this will depend on the time of day as crossing the bridge into Penang can be a frustrating experience if you get your timing wrong. Arriving in the rush hour can easily add 30 minutes to your journey time as the seven lanes of toll kiosks have to squeeze into two lanes. The seven ringgit you pay here is a one-off fee as leaving the island is free. Follow the road to the Ferri which will take you through the town and some unlikely narrow streets but they are the main road.
In the evening you can either eat at the excellent E&O or head over the road to the pedestrianised street which hosts a number of restaurants as well as the Garage, the local nightspot. Make sure you have an ocean view from your room as the rooms on the street side can be noisy late at night.

Day 4 – Penang to Trang: 393Kms – 6 hours
We cross to the mainland on the ferry as it is very close to the hotel and is a new experience. Once again make sure you take the ferry outside the rush hour as otherwise this can make for a long wait. As today is a border day it is well worth getting up early and taking a ferry before 8.00am. It should be around three hours to the Thai border. The Malaysian customs are straight forward and should usher you through. On the Thai side you will have to fill in an Arrivals Card, although, once again the border controls are efficient. We will go ahead to ease the carnet formalities. The road to the border is a mixture of local roads before we join the motorway which leads directly to the border. Make sure you fill up with fuel in Malaysia as it is exceedingly cheap at just 2 ringgit per litre. Thailand is more expensive though still good value from a western point of view.

The road from the border to Trang town is generally good, although there is little dual carriageway so overtaking can be hazardous as the Thai traffic is not as well disciplined as its Malaysian counterpart. Once in Trang we head for Sikao then Pak Meng where the splendidly isolated Amari Trang is situated. The tranquillity here is a great contrast to the hustle and bustle of life in Penang.

Once again the Spa facilities are well worth exploring but be sure to book early as rooms are limited. Rooms are overlooking the sea, so keep your curtains open at night too wake up to one of the great views.