http://www.tigerrally.co.uk/news.html http://www.tigerrally.co.uk/news1.html Wed, 12 Sep 2007 15:18:58 +0000 http://www.tigerrally.co.uk/news1.html MALAYSIA Kuala Lumpur As capital cities go KL is one of the most undiscovered. Most people have probably heard of it usually because of its striking linked twin Petronas towers, once the tallest in the world. Like a lot of emerging countries traffic is an issue and here it can be a nightmare particularly when it rains in the rush hour which it often does. The weekends are quieter which is why the first Tiger Rally as been scheduled to start on a Sunday morning. But first we have to collect the cars. On this event there will be some 20 containers, converging on Port Klang from all corners of the globe. And where could be more international than the new F1 circuit at Sepang to unload the cars? On the recce we were fortunate to be introduced to Izzudin Rosli, the sales and sponsorship manager of the circuit who has proved to be a star. He is arranging for the containers to be dropped at the back of the paddock area where the participants will be able to extract their cars themselves before parking them in the pits for a spanner check and fuel top up. Then the circuit is kindly allowing participants to shake down their vehicles on the track if they so wish. Refreshments will be provided and a few classic car enthusiasts from Malaysia will be invited to meet the participants and share in the trials and tribulations of maintaining older cars in Malaysia. There is a healthy community of classic car enthusiasts in Malaysia including the ex-prime minister who has a large collection of his own. The drive from Sepang to KL could be busy so we are suggesting that everyone leaves the circuit by 3.30pm to avoid the rush hour in the town. Parking will be underground at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel where we are staying. Even amongst competing hoteliers the Mandarin Oriental is agreed to be the best in town, not just due to its position, adjacent to the twin Petronas Towers, but also because of the quality of its rooms and service. KL itself is a cosmopolitan town with shopping centres and all the luxury brands you can think of. By contrast there are the local night markets and, of course, China town where prices are hugely inflated for foreigners. Don’t be shy in offering ridiculously low process for goods as the mark up is probably 300%. The next important event will be the flag off which will be from the Menara KL Tower, the fourth tallest building in the world. It is a short distance from the hotel and will be a great experience for everyone. Day 1 to Cameron Highlands: 208Kms - 4.5 hours Starting from the KL Tower you will soon be out of the town and into the Malaysian countryside. With Sunday being a day of rest the traffic will be light and free-flowing. The road we take will be the old road which runs parallel to the motorway, towards Ipoh. At Waypoint 32 we turn off and head up the hills to the cooler climes of this old Colonial hill station. Here the temperatures rarely moves above 25 degrees making it a great location for intensive farming which, while good for the local economy, has blighted the landscape in some areas. Our hotel just outside Tana Rata is the Cameron Highlands Resort which is directly opposite the golf course. Here, the welcome is warm – there may even be a fire in the grate - the rooms have four poster beds and the whole atmosphere is one of tranquillity and calm. The Spa is unique in offering a tea bath before you start your treatment. A whole new meaning to the expression ‘more tea vicar.’ However the whole experience is blissful and highly recommended after the hot sticky days in KL. Day 2 – Cameron Highlands to Pangkor Laut: 160Kms – 3.5hours Turning left out of the hotel the rally heads for the new road down the hill. This sweeping highway is barely used and quickly takes you from the 1475 metres height of the Cameron Highlands to the plains below, on the road to Lumut, the ferry stop over for the island of Pangkor Laut. First we head for Batu Gajah then onto Route 5 which takes us into Lumut and the passenger ferry. We have arranged for parking on the first floor of the new multi storey car park, where there will also be 24 guards to watch over the cars. The ferry heads round the island of Pangkor for its little brother, Pangkor Laut, a privately owned island which hosts one of Malaysia’s premier resorts. This experience is a direct contrast to Cameron Highlands as our rooms for the night are in a most idyllic location on stilts over the sea. You can then take advantage of the swimming pools or head for Emerald Bay beach and enjoy the beach life. In the evening we will be all eating together at Emerald Bay, just a few minutes away in the resort’s own minibuses. Here we can watch the sun set while sipping our sundowners and relaxing in the warm breeze. Like most days on the rally, you will have to decide whether to rise early and take advantage of the great spa facilities, take a leisurely breakfast, or head for beach for a few more rays before continuing the journey. Day 3 – Pangkor Laut to Penang: 183Kms – 4.5 hours Taking the ferry back to Lumut (8am or 11am) we head northwards towards Penang Island, once a legendary haunt of buccaneers and pirates, but now the most authentic colonial town in Malaysia – even the road signs are still in English with very English and Scottish sounding names. Having fallen out of fashion towards the end of the 20th century all its most significant buildings have been preserved instead of being knocked down and replaced with high rise offices and flats. The E&O Hotel is a case in point. It was the centre of high society during the colonial era but fell into disrepair after the Saaki bothers went bankrupt. In 1995 Restoration was begun and it reopened in 2001 since when it has once again become a popular haunt of tourists and high society. The drive from Lumut is about 4 hours 30 minutes but this will depend on the time of day as crossing the bridge into Penang can be a frustrating experience if you get your timing wrong. Arriving in the rush hour can easily add 30 minutes to your journey time as the seven lanes of toll kiosks have to squeeze into two lanes. The seven ringgit you pay here is a one-off fee as leaving the island is free. Follow the road to the Ferri which will take you through the town and some unlikely narrow streets but they are the main road. In the evening you can either eat at the excellent E&O or head over the road to the pedestrianised street which hosts a number of restaurants as well as the Garage, the local nightspot. Make sure you have an ocean view from your room as the rooms on the street side can be noisy late at night. Day 4 – Penang to Trang: 393Kms – 6 hours We cross to the mainland on the ferry as it is very close to the hotel and is a new experience. Once again make sure you take the ferry outside the rush hour as otherwise this can make for a long wait. As today is a border day it is well worth getting up early and taking a ferry before 8.00am. It should be around three hours to the Thai border. The Malaysian customs are straight forward and should usher you through. On the Thai side you will have to fill in an Arrivals Card, although, once again the border controls are efficient. We will go ahead to ease the carnet formalities. The road to the border is a mixture of local roads before we join the motorway which leads directly to the border. Make sure you fill up with fuel in Malaysia as it is exceedingly cheap at just 2 ringgit per litre. Thailand is more expensive though still good value from a western point of view. The road from the border to Trang town is generally good, although there is little dual carriageway so overtaking can be hazardous as the Thai traffic is not as well disciplined as its Malaysian counterpart. Once in Trang we head for Sikao then Pak Meng where the splendidly isolated Amari Trang is situated. The tranquillity here is a great contrast to the hustle and bustle of life in Penang. Once again the Spa facilities are well worth exploring but be sure to book early as rooms are limited. Rooms are overlooking the sea, so keep your curtains open at night too wake up to one of the great views. ]]> http://www.tigerrally.co.uk/news2.html Wed, 12 Sep 2007 15:23:23 +0000 http://www.tigerrally.co.uk/news2.html THAILAND Day 5 - Trang to Phuket: 254Kms – 4.5 hours The day starts on the smaller roads which lead from the hotel to Sikaoa and onto the highway to Phuket. Not a long day but plenty of opportunities to turn off to look at waterfalls and temples. There will be an abundance of seasonal fruit on sale by the road side. Look for the small but sweet bananas. You will also be offered Durian which you should treat with caution. Even when it’s fresh it’s an acquired taste but when it’s ripe it’s positively disgusting – it’s even banned on public transport. Other fruits that you may consider are the mangosteen and the Longon which looks like a new potato. Peel it and inside is delicious white fleshy fruit. The hairy red fruit is the Rambutan, which when peeled gives a fruit similar to the Lychee, but in my humble opinion much much better. Arriving in Phuket the Twin Palms is easy to find and offers boutique style rooms near the beach. It has its own beach front which is just a couple of minutes walk away. Relax here with a sun downer to end the perfect day. You can also take advantage of the massage ladies on the beach. In Phunket there are a host of things to do from fine dining to fine relaxation. There’s even a golf course for those so inclined, but perhaps the most popular pastime is shopping in the night market or just through the streets of Patong. Here we will be taking our first rest days so its a great opportunity to recharge those batteries – personal and vehicle – and relax. This will also provide a great opportunity for car maintenance and servicing. From Phuket the group is split into two due to the shortage of accommodation en-route to Kanchanaburi. The first group gets two nights at Phuket and two nights in Bangkok while the second gets three nights in Phuket and just one in Bangkok. Phuket to Tusita: 359Kms – 6 hours A day to look at the effects of the Tsunami and perhaps make a small contribution to help the sea gypsies settle down into a normal life. We will be visiting a nursery school which has been built out of the ruins of the disaster but must now move to a new site as the current one is regarded as too low by the locals who are still afraid of a repetition of the 2005 tidal wave. The school is an hour and a half north of Phuket and the children and teachers are looking forward to a visit from us during the two days the rally passes by. A wish list of items will be available should anyone feel like contributing to this very good cause. From here the road continues up the west side of the peninsular until we turn inland and head towards Chumphon. Soon after hitting the main north-south highway we turn towards the east coast and the delightful Tusita Beach Resort. Here you can relax in the pool, go to the very quiet beach by cycle if you wish, for a dip in the sea or luxuriate in one of the spa facilities. With the resort being divided into two parts it is nice to be at the beach front as the sun gently dips into the crystal sea. Tusita to Kanchanaburi: 543Kms – 8 Hours. Hotel: River Kwai Resort There’s no doubt that this is a long drive but on the plus side the roads are good with only moderate traffic most of the time. Starting early from Tusita will help as the traffic will be lighter and the temperature cooler. In common with all the roads on this event there are plenty of petrol stations and if you are looking for something safe to eat and drink try the 7/11 Shops. If you want to be more adventurous there are plenty of road side cafes offering good local food. The reason for the excursion to Kanchanaburi is two-fold. One, to see the infamous death railway and the bridge on the river Kwai, and secondly to visit the Tiger Temple which is a few kms out of town. This is a unique experience as here you can actually sit and walk with the tigers. We are arranging for the Abbot to give us a talk about the work being done at the Temple. Currently the tigers at the reserve are too tame to return to the wild but a new enclosure is being built to help future tigers that have been rescued return to their natural habitat. The bridge, so memorably evoked in the David Lean film, Bridge on the River Kwai, is now a cast iron version as the original was blown up during the Second World war soon after its completion. However, you can walk over the bridge free of charge which is still a moving experience when you bear in mind that 16,000 prisoners of war and 100,000 asian labourers died in its and the Death Railway’s construction. If you want to see the guts and all detail of what went on there, then visit the local museum. Kanchanaburi to Bangkok: 210Kms – 3.5hrs. Hotel: The Oriental One of the least interesting journeys of the event as it is urbanised virtually from start to finish. The really tricky bit is the drive to the hotel once you get into Bangkok. We approach along the main road then turn south on Route 9 for a few kilometres before turning for the Taksi Bridge. Once over the bridge we are within a couple of kms of the hotel and an oasis of calm in a bustling hectic metropolis. The Oriental is on the river with its own ‘junks’ to take you up and down the river or simply to the other side where the hotel spa centre is situated. ]]> http://www.tigerrally.co.uk/news3.html Wed, 12 Sep 2007 16:18:33 +0000 http://www.tigerrally.co.uk/news3.html CAMBODIA Bangkok to Siem Reap: 402Kms – 10hrs (inc border) Hotel: Grand Hotel d'Ankor An early start is highly recommended for this day at it is a long, but not difficult road to Siem Reap. The first part out of Bangkok is gratifyingly simple as the entrance to the motorway is close to the hotel – less than 2km away. Once on the motorway the route out of town is straightforward and then good to the border which is invariably hot and dusty. Be patient and the process will pass easier. As usual we will have someone at the border helping with formalities. For a short while the road is fine, then it becomes a graded which in March should be fine as they have grading machines constantly repairing the road. The question is why is it not metalled? The unofficial answer is that an airline is ensuring it does not get paved. On the way into Siem Reap you will pass such landmarks as the new golf course but don’t expect to see the temples from the road as they are well hidden from view. As we will be visiting for three nights we will arrange for three day passes to the temples for everyone, although payment will have to be made individually to the local agent. One-day passes are also available. For a diverting night out go to Bar Street – not it’s real name but very apt and known to all the tuk tuk and taxi drivers. Here you can have some good food, good beer and watch the street life. It goes on until two or three in the morning but its not just bars and food there are also plenty of stalls to spend your US dollars on. Siem Reap to Phnom, Penh: 312Kms – 6hrs. Hotel: Raffles Le Royale The road is good most of the way from Siem Reap to the capital PP which was devastated in the days of Pol Pot. What started out as a vibrant capital city was quickly turned into a ghost town as the population was decimated by his tyrannical regime. He died in 1998. But many of his henchmen are still alive and only now are they indicting these despots who killed around millions of people. The Cambodians are amongst the friendliest you will find anywhere but there is a striking lack of old people in the country. Maybe it’s because they are all so youthful that it is friendly as they haven’t had the chance to be influenced by the old and cynical. Once in PP there are a couple of must do tours – one is to the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and the other is to the Killing Fields which are some way out of town so you will need a taxi for this. Both are incredibly moving and will only make you wonder at the stupidity and violence of the Pol Pot era. ]]> http://www.tigerrally.co.uk/news4.html Wed, 16 Jan 2008 06:50:41 +0000 http://www.tigerrally.co.uk/news4.html VIETNAM PP to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon): 280Kms – 7.5hrs (inc border). Hotel: Sheraton You need to start early for this trip as it’s another border, not to mention a river ferry crossing on the way. Once at the border you will be amazed by the number of Casinos here which seem to be aimed at enticing the Vietnamese over the border to spend their money. They are not quite Las Vegas but look quite good from the outside, Soon after entering Vietnam we take a detour to the Ho Chi Minh tunnels at Cu Chi some 70km from Ho Chi Minh City. Here you can see how the Viet Cong tunnelled their way under the US military camps and infiltrated their lines. You can crawl through one yourself but I suggest that if you suffer from even the smallest amount of claustrophobia you will find them impossible to contemplate. You also get the chance to fire a variety of automatic weapons used by both sides – with live ammunition. Definitely a big boys toy. Watch the recoil! As you approach HCMC the traffic increases alarmingly with almost the whole population driving around on scooters and little motorbikes. You will discover that the whole of Vietnam is similar with the drivers seemingly oblivious to traffic around them. You need a good horn, patience and a moderate pace. The hotel is located in district 1 which has many of the best restaurants, shops and some sights such as the Opera House nearby. Ho Chi Minh City to Da Lat: 280Kms – 5hrs. Hotel: Da Lat Palace And now for something completely different. The town of Da Lat was a hill station for the French during their colonial period in Vietnam and still retains much of its original charm. The best example is the Da Lat Palace Hotel itself which is still exquisitely evocative of the era. The welcome will be warm although we will hopefully have more clement weather in this little oasis. Two nights here are a must, giving the opportunity to visit silk factories nearby, the market and the golf course which is one of the very best in SE Asia. But if you are happy to just relax try the excellent spa facilities. The road is generally good once outside HCMC although stopping for road food can be problematical if you are faint hearted. While they do eat dog meat in Vietnam it is very rare and will not be served to you or openly on a menu. Packed lunches will be available although it is good to sample the food available. Da Lat to Nha Trang: 220Kms – 4.5hrs. Hotel: Sofitel Vinpearl Resort From the cool of Da Lat we descend to the stunning Vietnamese coastline along an exceptionally picturesque hill road which meanders down to the coast. Not a long day so plenty of time to take in the countryside and enjoy the views. Sofitel Vinpearl Resort is located on an unspoiled island overlooking an aquamarine sea at the south end of famed Central Coast of Vietnam. Its midway between Ho Chi Minh City and Danang. The hotel has 230 large, well appointed rooms, most of which overlook the South China Sea and the private beach which is exclusive to the hotel. Renowned as a tropical paradise and retreat for sun lovers with beautiful white sand beaches and 300 days of sunshine per year. Nha Trang to Hoi An: 510Kms – 8.5hrs. Hotel: Nam Hai This looks like a long way on the maps but the road is good and the sights spectacular. Hugging the coastline you will follow the South China Sea to the right while having the mountains to the left providing the best of both worlds. This is a region of Vietnam steeped in history and there are a number of stop-offs that will be a magnet for the historically minded. Hoi An is just 30km south of Danang which, for most of us, has strong resonances of the Vietnam conflict. This drive is one of the longer on the event but the rewards are huge with the day ending at the Nam Hai hotel, one of the finest we will be staying at on this event. Running down the east coast of Central Vietnam in a seemingly unbroken swathe of alluring soft white sand, China Beach has captured the imagination like no other sun-and-sand playground. And it is here, on a prime stretch of Ha My Beach near historic Hoi An that The Nam Hai is sited. The Nam Hai is no ordinary beachfront getaway. This is a benchmark setting for sybarites in search of real class. Sprawled across 35 hectares, this splendid spa resort opened in December 2006 offering 60 elegant Villas and a further 40 Pool Villas each within landscaped gardens with unobstructed views across the South China Sea on to the misty Cham Islands. Bedrooms are spacious with en suite baths, walk-in closets, and high ceilings, all adding to a sense of space. Welcome to Vietnam cool. Hoi An to Hue: 140Kms – 3hrs. Hotel: La Residence After two nights in the lap of luxury you will have to haul yourself away from the Nam Hai and take to the road again. But, we are not cruel and a short distance up the coast is the historic town of Hue where we suggest you use the short day to look round the historic Old City. Hue was the capitol of Vietnam from 1744 when the Nguyen lords controlled all of southern Vietnam from the city. The dynasty of the Nguyen family lasted from 1802, when Nguyen Anh defeated rebels to control the city, until 1945, when the last emperor abdicated. The city was severely damaged in the 1968 Tet offensive during the American war, when house-to-house fighting lasted for weeks, but many architectural gems remain and are well worth a visit. Hue is divided between the older fortified Citadel, containing almost everything interesting, and the new, smaller sprawl that has developed across the Perfume River. The new side contains most of the facilities, the hotels, restaurants, travel agencies, and banks. People come to Hue to see the old Imperial complex, the Citadel and the Forbidden city, the pagodas, and the many tombs of the emperors that lie a few kilometres south of the city. Each tomb is a walled compound containing temples, palaces, and lakes. Hue to Vinh: 360Kms – 3hrs. Hotel: Phuong Dong After two nights in the lap of luxury you will have to haul yourself away from the Nam Hai and head north to the regional town of Vinh which, it has to be said, is not the most beautiful city in Vietnam but it serves our purpose well as a staging post for the drive to Laos. While the hotel was modern and adequate, on the recce we were assured that the hotel will be improved for the visit of the rally. The drive to Vinh, however, is excellent as you pass over the 71st Parallel some 100km north of Hue. This was the two km wide Demilitarised Zone which held the north and south apart for many years. The Geneva Conference on July 21, 1954, recognized the 17th parallel as a "provisional military demarcation line" temporarily dividing the country into two states, Communist North Vietnam and "Free" South Vietnam. The Geneva Accords promised elections in 1956 to determine a national government for a united Vietnam. However, only France and the North Vietnamese government (DRV) signed the document. The U.S. and the government in Saigon refused to abide by the agreement, believing that the election would result in an easy victory for Hồ Chí Minh. Emperor Bảo Đại, from his home in France, appointed Ngô Đình Diệm as Prime Minister of South Vietnam. With American support. In 1955, Diệm used a rigged referendum to remove the Emperor and declare himself president of the Republic of Vietnam. Thus the competition for the whole of Vietnam began; Diệm's military was unable to prevail in the civil war which escalated, as a result of international intervention, into the Vietnam War. ]]> http://www.tigerrally.co.uk/news5.html Wed, 16 Jan 2008 08:07:44 +0000 http://www.tigerrally.co.uk/news5.html LAOS Laos, oficially the Lao People's Democratic Republic, is bordered by Burma (Myanmar) and China to the northwest, Vietnam to the east, Cambodia to the south, and Thailand to the west. Laos traces its history to the Kingdom of Lan Xang or Land of a Million Elephants, which existed from the fourteenth to the eighteenth century as a vassal of Siam. After a period as a French protectorate, it gained independence in 1949. A long civil war ended officially when the communist Pathet Lao movement came to power in 1975 but the fighting between factions continued for several years. Private enterprise has increased since the late 1990s when economic reforms including rapid business licensing were introduced. Laos is still ranked among the lowest countries in terms of economic and political freedom. The economy of Laos grew at 7.2% in 2006, 35th fastest in the world. 80% of the employed practice subsistence agriculture. The country's ethnic make-up is diverse, with around 70% belonging to the largest ethnic group, the Lao. Vinh to Vientianne: 460Kms – 9hrs. Hotel: Don Chan Palace Up at the crack of down for the run into Laos. Although, once again a long distance, it is actually a much easier drive than one would anticipate. The road in Vietnam is quite mountainous to the border with stunning views. Customs facilities are easy at the border. When I was there on the recce the officials were engrossed in a game of Petanque or Boules – the French boulevard game. Although only invented in 1907 it has clearly remained as an abiding reminder of French occupation. The other reminder you will see is the proliferation of Baguettes which the Lao people clearly love. The road from the border is excellent, having been built by the Vietnamese some four years ago. What would once have been a long and painful journey is now a joy. The road passes through the land of the Mung, the hill tribes. The other tribes are the Kamu or Middle Landers and the Laulung – Low Landers. There is also a marked contrast in the housing in this area, for one coming from Vietnam where the houses are narrow and long. Here they are much wider and often on stilts. Vientianne is more modern than old, although if you arrive on time, the sunset over the Mekong River is a must. Vientianne to Luang Prabang: 386Kms – 7.5hrs. Hotel: The Grand Hotel A fabulous drive through the interior of Laos to the most touristic town in Laos. Having said that it is still a tranquil backwater compared to many tourist destinations and is still a delight to walk round. Of great historical significance the city was formerly the capital of a kingdom of the same name. Until the communist takeover in 1975, it was the royal capital and seat of government of the Kingdom of Laos and now it is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The main street, Xiang Thong, of Luang Prabang is a wonderful patchwork of traditional Lao wooden houses and hints of European architecture - reminders of when Laos was part of the French colony of Indochine. Golden-roofed wats (temples), decorated with mosaics and murals of the life of Buddha sit under the gaze of wrap-around balconies and 19th century shuttered windows. Places to visit: Haw Kham - the former royal palace. Phou Si - the main hill, from which you have a good view of the whole area. Vat Xieng Toung - the oldest monastery in town and one of the most beautiful. Kuang Si Falls, 29 km south of Luang Prabang. There are multiple pools at different levels, all of which seem safe to bathe in, and are extremely picturesque. Pak Ou Caves - the famous "Buddha caves" are some km north of town on the Mekong and can be reached by boat or road. Alternatively, you could hire canoes and a guide for the day. Night market - there is a 'night-market' selling all the typical Lao arts and crafts, some more touristy than others. This is very pretty and worth a visit, but be warned that it packs up by about 9pm, unlike the similar markets in Thailand that go on well into the early hours. Luang Prabang to Phon Sa Van: 260Kms – 6hrs. Hotel: Plain of Jars Hotel Although some of the day is retracing the road from the drive to Luang Prabang it does take on a different character, making it an equally fascinating drive. Start early to get to Phon Sa Van by mid afternoon and you will have an opportunity to see one of the great mysteries of the area – The Plain of Jars. The Jars, giant stone urns are a great mystery with varying explanations being offered. The most prosaic is the Lao legend that there was a race of giants who once inhabited the area. Local legend tells of an ancient king called Khun Cheung, who fought a long, victorious battle against his enemy. He supposedly created the jars to brew and store huge amounts of lao lao rice wine to celebrate his victory. The jars lie in clusters. The largest one near the town of Phonsavan, known as Site 1, contains over 250 jars of varying sizes. The jars now lie amidst thousands of unexploded bombs left behind by the Secret War in Laos in the 1960s. The large quantity of UXOs (unexploded ordnances) in the area means that only Sites 1, 2 and 3 are open to visitors—the others are considered too dangerous. ]]>